INGREDIENTS EXPLAINED -
(the ingredients listed below are used in one or more of the products that we supply).

What exactly are all those ingredients and what is their function? We have devised this glossary below to help you understand. This reveals what we feel is important information that can help you make an informed choice and also reassure you.

ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE - 3 (ARGIRELINE) an anti-wrinkle peptide, which works through a unique mechanism that relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with regular use.

AHA's : Ingredients extracted from various plant sources or milk. However, 99% of the AHAs used in cosmetics are synthetically derived. In low concentrations (less than 3%) these work as water-binding agents. At over 4% and in a pH of 3 to 4, these can exfoliate skin cells by breaking down the substance in skin that holds skin cells together. The most effective and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid may also be effective but are considered less stable and less skin friendly.

ALCOHOL : Organic compounds that have a vast range of forms and uses in cosmetics. In some benign forms they are glycols used as humectants and help deliver ingredients into skin. When fats and oils (see fatty acids) are chemically reduced, they become a group of less-dense alcohols called fatty alcohols that can have emollient properties or become detergent cleansing agents. When alcohols have low molecular weights they can be drying and irritating. The alcohols to be concerned about in skin-care products are ethanol, denatured alcohol, ethyl alcohol, methanol, benzyl alcohol, isopropyl, and SD alcohol. These can be extremely drying and irritating to skin.
ALLONTOIN: A by-product of uric acid extracted from urea and considered an effective anti-irritant
ALOE EXTRACT, (see below)
ALOE VERA EXTRACT: Has been shown to have anti-irritant and soothing properties. In pure form, aloe vera's benefits on skin are probably its lack of occlusion and the refreshing sensation it provides.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS. See AHAs
APRICOT KERNEL: A seed that, especially when finely ground, is a natural exfoliant.
ARGIRELINE: see ACETYL HEXAPEPTIDE - 3
ASEFETIDA EXTRACT: taken from a herbal plant from India to prevent the formation of melanin, resulting in a lighter skin color and more even skin tone.

B
BLADDERWRACK EXTRACT: Has a tightening, drying effect on skin
BUTYLCARBAMATE: Preservative
BUTYLENE GLYCOL: An agent which attracts moisture to the skin and retains it.

C
C13-14: Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient
CAMPHOR: Aromatic substance obtained from the wood of a southeast Asian tree, Cinnamomum camphora, or manufactured synthetically. When applied to the skin it produces a cooling effect and dilates blood vessels
CANADIAN WILLOWHERB: A 5% extract of Canadian Willowherb has been shown to reduce redness more rapidly than 1% hydrocortisone cream (Herb-A-Clear contains a 5% extract).
CAPSICUM EXTRACT: Derived from a large group of plants consisting primarily of the pepper family, including chili peppers and paprika. These are used as counter-irritants to relieve muscle aches.
CARBOMER: Thickening agents used primarily to create gel-like formulations
CETEARYL ALCOHOL: A fatty alcohol used as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener, and carrying agent for other ingredients. Can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or synthetically.
CETYL DIMETHICONE: Semisynthetic compound derived from a fatty acid and synthetic silicones. Function: Emollient / Moisturiser
CHAMOMILE: Herb that has research showing it to have anti-irritant, soothing, and antioxidant properties .
COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE: Considered one of the more gentle surfactants used in skin-care products. See surfactant.
CORUNDUM CRYSTAL (ALUMINIUMOXIDE): a patented formula for optimum exfoliation and cellular rejuvenation.
CYCLOMETHICONE: Silicone with a drier finish than dimethicone. See silicone

D
DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL: See silicone
DEIONIZED WATER: Filtered water used in cosmetics. All water used in cosmetic formulations goes through this process to remove components that could interfere with a product's stability and performance.
DIMETHICONE: See silicone
DIPEPTIDE-2: Helps improve lymphatic circulation and detoxifies skin
DISILLED WATER: Filtered water used in cosmetics. All water used in cosmetic formulations goes through this process to remove components that could interfere with a product's stability and performance.

E
EMOLLIENT: Substances that prevent water loss and have a softening and soothing effect on the skin. They can be natural, like almond oil, or manufactured, like mineral oil
EMU OIL: An oil extracted from a large bird native to New Zealand. It is a good emollient and water-binding agent and has anti-inflammatory properties
EMULSIFIER: an additive that promotes the formation of a stable mixture, or emulsion, of oil and water.
ESSENTIAL OILS: Group of volatile fluids derived primarily from plants, and used in cosmetics primarily as fragrant additives.
ESTER-C (VITAMIN C): Trade name for a combination form of vitamin C that contains mainly calcium ascorbate
ETHYLHEXYL BENZOATE: U.V. absorber
ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE-EMOLLIENT: U.V. absorber

F
FATTY ACIDS: Typically found in plant and animal lipids (fat), such as glycerides, sterols, and phospholipids. These are used in cosmetics as emollients, thickening agents, and when mixed with glycerin, cleansing agents.
FDC&C RED 33: According to the FDA, when FD&C is followed by a colour, it is certified as safe for use in food, drugs, and cosmetics..
FRAGRANCE: One or a blend of either volatile and/or fragrant plant oils (or synthetically derived oils) that impart aroma and odor to products.

G
GLYCERINE: A viscous fluid derived either synthetically or from plants. It is an emollient, a slip agent, and a humectant ( water-binding agent) and can keep water in skin. Myths about glycerin taking water out of the skin are inaccurate and do this great skin-care ingredient a disservice.
GLYCERYL STEARATE: Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. Part of a large group of ingredients that are composed of fats and oils. At room temperature, the fats are usually solid and the oils are generally liquid. Some tropical oils are liquids in their sites of origin and become solids in cooler or different applications. These multitudinous fats and oils are used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as water-binding and thickening agents.
PEG-100 STEARATE: PEG stands for polyethylene glycol. Various forms of PEG compounds are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients.
GLYCERYL STEARATE SE: Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics. See glyceryl ester.
GLYCOLIC ACID (AHA): see AHA

H
HESPERIDEN: A bioflavinoid that has antioxidant and water-binding properties for skin
HESPERIDEN METHYL CHALCONE: see above
HORSECHESTNUT SEED EXTRACT : May have anti-inflammatory properties for skin, but it can also stimulate circulation
HYALURONIC ACID: A component of skin tissue that is used in skin-care products as a good water-binding agent and moisuriser.
HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL: Used in cosmetics as emollients and lubricants as well as binding and thickening agents.
HYDROLYSED WHEAT PROTEIN: Wheat proteins broken down by enzymes or by treatment with acids or alkalis. An agent which attracts moisture to the skin and retains it.

I
IODOPROPYNOL: Used as a preservative in cosmetics. See preservatives.
IRON OXIDES: Compounds of iron that are used as colourings in some cosmetics
ISOPARAFFIN: Waxy, petroleum-based substance. Used as a thickener for cosmetics.
ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL: see alcohol
ISOPRPYL PALIMITATE: Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and emollient and, as is true for any emollient or thickening agent
ISOSTEARIC ACID: A naturally occurring fatty acid. Function: Binding agent / Emulsifier / Surfactant

J
JOJOBA OIL: An emollient oil similar to all nonvolatile plant oils

K
KOJIC DIPALMITATE: see below
KOJIC ACID: An extract of fungi (mushrooms) that has some reported value for preventing melanin production. Kojic acid does have antioxidant properties.

L
LACTIC ACID: An alpha hydroxy acid (see AHAs) extracted from milk, though most forms used in cosmetics are synthetic. It exfoliates cells on the surface of skin by breaking down the material that holds skin cells together.
LAURETH-7: Substances that in various combinations create a wide range of mild detergent cleansing agents called surfactants. See surfactant.

M
MAGNESIUM ALUMINIUM SILICATE: A powdery, dry-feeling white solid that can be used as a thickening agent and powder in cosmetics.
MALIC ACID (AHA): see AHA
METHYL PARABEN: see parabens
MIROCRYSTALLINE WAX: crystal structure wax for binding ingredients

N
NATURAL ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS, see AHA
NEOPENTYLGLYCOL DICAPRYLATE/DICAPRATE: Used as an emollient and thickening agent

O
OCTYL METHOXYCINNAMATE: A sunscreen agent used to protect primarily from the sun